Càrn Dearg Meadhonach – CMD Arete Ben Nevis
The CMD, or Càrn Dearg Meadhonach, is a summit in the Scottish Highlands that rises to 1,220 meters above sea level, right next to the UK’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, which stands at 1,345 meters. The CMD route is a quieter alternative for hikers compared to other paths, but it is also more challenging in terms of ability and energy. However, the rewards along this route are well worth the effort.
CMD Arete – Hiking Ability
To tackle the CMD Arête to Ben Nevis, you don’t need to possess a high level of skill, but a good level of fitness and a steady foot is essential. There are sections of the route with no option to turn back, and you will be traversing a very exposed ridgeline. It is entirely safe if you take your time and are confident. However, in bad weather, conditions can become dangerous. Despite our experience with long hikes and walks, this route pushed us to a level of exhaustion we hadn’t faced before.
Ben Nevis Hiking Tips
Preparation is crucial before you embark on this hike. Each person should carry a minimum of three litres of water, or more if the weather is hot, as there are no sources of water or streams available at higher altitudes. Sunscreen is another essential item; one of our group members suffered second-degree burns because he applied sunscreen but didn’t reapply it often enough. Additionally, bring your usual supplies, including a good lunch, energy gels, and a torch if you’re hiking later in the season. An early start is also vital; aim to arrive at the car park by 8 a.m. at the latest. This timing will ensure you tackle the more difficult sections during daylight.
1. Start – North Face Car Park
The North Face Car Park will serve as your starting and finishing point for this round hike. If you want a shorter descent, you can finish at Glen Nevis, but you’ll need to arrange for a taxi back to the North Face Car Park or get a lift to the start. We recommend getting a lift to the North Face Car Park if you don’t do a circular route, so that you can relax after your hike. Note that the car park is unmanned and operates on a pay-by-phone basis through the National Trust. It is open 24 hours, but overnight camping is not allowed.
2. North Face Path
Upon leaving the car park, follow a dirt road until you turn right and see signs for the North Face Path, which leads you into a dense woodland. This section of the path is beautiful and will begin to climb dramatically, warming you up for the day ahead. A raging stream will accompany you on the right side, forming part of the local hydroelectric system. Once the forest clears, you will reach a junction with a gate and stile on your right. Keep to the right, cross over the stile, and follow the path with the river beside you.
3. Left to Carn Beag Dearg
At this point, having a GPS or solid map-reading skills is very useful, as you won’t be on a well-marked path for much longer. After crossing the stile, continue along this path for 300 meters, then turn left onto open terrain; there are no signs to indicate this turn. The trail disappears, and you will find yourself crossing a boggy field, which can be soggy even in summer. It remains relatively flat, and you’ll want to orient yourself toward the first peak on the left of the range in the distance, known as Carn Beag Dearg. Expect to get wet, as getting completely soaked is quite normal in this marshy area.
4. Hill Climbing
As you navigate through the bog, it will begin to transform into a stream running down the side of a hill. You should start heading straight up this stream, veering slightly to the right. Once the ground firms up and becomes rockier, the path will become clearer as the tracks start to appear. The gradient becomes steeper, and you will turn approximately 45 degrees to your right, gently climbing up alongside the hill. Your target now is Carn Dearg Meadhonach, which will be your first summit.
5. Carn Dearg Meadhonach
Upon reaching your first summit at 1,180 meters, approximately three hours into your hike, you will have covered the longest ground distance of the journey. This is a great spot to recharge and have some lunch, as the distances between peaks become shorter from here, though the technical challenges increase. Following the ridge to your right, the next section is relatively easy and will lead you to your second peak, Carn Mor Dearg.
6. Càrn Dearg Meadhonach Arete
From this point onward, you’ll be scrambling right on top of the ridgeline. If you haven’t done this before, remain calm, take your time, and remember to take plenty of breaks. You may see more experienced hikers and climbers moving along the ridge effortlessly, but if you are new to this experience, don’t feel embarrassed to proceed slowly and cautiously. In poor weather conditions, with wind or snow, this section should not be attempted by inexperienced climbers. The ridgeline is known as Càrn Dearg Meadhonach Arete, and it is the most challenging part of the hike. Expect it to take between 1 and 2 hours, depending on your ability.
7. Ridgeline Scramble
Towards the end of the ridgeline, the path makes a slight dip to the left. You will then scramble back up alongside the mountainside toward your next rest point. The terrain opens up, providing a stunning viewpoint with Ben Nevis to your right.
8. Final Climb to Ben Nevis
Continuing to your right, you will approach a 45-degree climb. Technically, this climb is relatively easy as it consists of large rocks, with multiple ways to ascend the broad face. In poor weather, stick to the centre of the path, where poles are in place to guide you up. This section of the climb can be pretty enjoyable, as you know you are nearing the end. You can climb at your own pace, and the technical difficulty is minimal. Soon, you will reach a plateau.
9. Ben Nevis Summit
You’ll find yourself on a large, open, flat rocky area at the peak of Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in the UK at 1,345 meters. Rich in history, this area features the remains of an abandoned observatory and was once home to the Ben Nevis Observatory Hotel. This small wooden structure, which opened in 1885, closed in 1916.
10. Return via Mountain Path
The descent is straightforward as you follow the Mountain Path down, which feels like a breeze compared to what you’ve just experienced. This path is easy to follow and quite wide, accommodating the large number of explorers who hike Ben Nevis daily. In inclement weather, this route also serves as an alternative for summiting Ben Nevis, accessible from the North Face Car Park via the North Face path and the Charles Inglis Clark Memorial Hut.
11. Ben Nevis Waterfall
After a considerable time, descending about 700 meters, you’ll encounter a stunning waterfall, an excellent spot to refill your water bottles. Continue along the flat path that hugs the mountainside until you reach a junction with a signpost for Glen Nevis on your left. If you are returning to Glen Nevis, turn left and descend straight down. If you are heading back to the North Face Car Park, keep to your right.
12. North Face Path or Marsh Return Route
The path continues for another 300 meters, leading you to your next decision point. You can either take the shorter but unmarked route through a boggier marsh by turning left toward the lake or opt for the longer but well-marked path along the North Face on your right. The marsh route will take about 2 hours to return to the start, while the North Face path, although easier, will take around 3 to 4 hours.
13. Marsh and Stream to Car Park
If you choose the path down toward the lake, it will come to an end, and you’ll need to cross the stream flowing from the lake entering the bog. Keeping the stream on your right side, navigate in a northward direction while staying close to the stream. This part can take a while, but it is a fun segment of the hike. Toward the end, you’ll cross the stream again and finally cross a wider river back into the forest where you began. When you find yourself back at the first stile of the day, you’ve completed all the hard work. Now, it’s just a simple matter of following the forest path back to the North Face Car Park.
